Crate training is really the most effective way to train a puppy and a crate is so useful for so many things. Judith Trenck, a basset hound owner, shared this personal story about the usefulness of crates:
"Several years ago, I got a call that a very well-respected Basset Breeder Judge had been in a very bad accident while in D.C. on non-dog business. He always traveled with one of his "non-basset" dogs. The dog was crated. I took some flowers and "good wishes" to this man while in the hospital. I think he was there close to a week, and was in pretty rough shape, certainly in no shape to worry about chasing a loose dog along a busy hiway. Where was the dog? He was safe and sound, having been sent home shortly after the accident. He was not out running loose on the Dulles Airport Access Road, he was not in an emergency Vet Clinic. Crates are you dog's securty, not only in the home, but most especially in your auto."
You need to purchase a crate in which your dog when full grown can stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. A medium-size Vari-Kennel is what we use for Beagles. Before you can use the crate for potty-training, you have to get the puppy used to the crate.
Set up the crate out of the dogs view so he doesn't become wary of the new device. Tie the cage door open to prevent it from swinging shut. Put the crate in the dog's feeding area and begin feeding the dog within 2 feet of the crate. Put her blanket or a towel with your scent inside. Do not allow anything such as a loud noise to startle the pup near the crate.
Between feeding times, place treats and toys inside the crate for the puppy to retrieve. When she retrieves them, praise her but don't show concern if she doesn't retrieve them right away. Allow her to adapt to the crate at her own speed.
Once your pup seems comfortable eating near the crate and retrieving toys and treats from it, put the food dish just inside the entrance of the crate. Allow the puppy to eat at the entrance. Gradually move the dish toward the back of the crate over a period of time (days). The time period depends on your puppy's adjustment. If your dog shows a reluctance to eat at any point in crate training, go back to a previously successful point and progress from there.
When the dog has eaten several meals while standing completely inside the crate, begin closing the crate door at mealtimes, opening it to release the dog as soon as she has finished.
Begin putting her inside the crate to sleep at night. The best place for the crate at this time is on the floor beside your bed. If this arrangement is impossible, put it in an area where the dog can smell and hear family members. We give our beagles a treat right after they get into their crate for the night and they RUN to go to bed. Be sure to give her the opportunity to eliminate before bedtime, and be aware of signals she may give you in the night when she needs to relieve herself.
The best policy is to leave her in the crate no more than 3-4 hours at a time, unless she is sleeping there overnight.
If she barks or whines, and you know she doesn't need to relieve herself, say NO and rap on top of the crate then wait for 30 seconds of quiet, then praise, and/or let her out. Never let her out when she fusses (unless you think she has to relieve herself, and then follow the following potty training steps); wait til she is quiet to reinforce her quiet behavior.
Now, once she is used to the crate, you can use it as a tool to housetrain her. Unless you are watching her every second when she is in the house, she should be in the crate. Dogs do not want to foul their den - the crate is her den - so she will "hold it" as long as she can (puppies under 6 mos usually can't hold it all night which is why it's important you can hear her and take her out at night).
"Experts" recommend always using the same door to take out the puppy and always taking her to the same area to eliminate. It helps her if there's one stool left in the area that she can smell to help her get in the mood to go. Be patient - she may need 15 minutes before she's ready to go. Always stay with her so that you can praise her when she goes. Praise her softly and gently so you don't startle and interrupt her. Use a cue word or phrase like "Go potty" when you take her out, and repeat the word "Good potty" when she goes.
Don't depend on her to tell you when she needs to go out. Always take her out when she wakes up (after the night or after a nap), after a play session, shortly after eating or drinking, shortly after chewing her "bone", and if she pants, paces, or acts restless. There's a distinctive sniffing a dog does when she's looking for a good potty spot. Take her out immediately if she starts that sniffing.
A puppy must be CAUGHT IN THE ACT to understand that what she's doing is wrong. She does not understand when you show her the mess and scold her even after only a few minutes. If you catch her in the act, throw something to startle her (a recycled pop can with several coins inside, taped over the opening is a good device), then immediately take her to the right spot outside while praising her for stopping. If you never let her out of your sight when she's in the house unless she's in her crate, you won't have any surprise findings.
After she's been consistent - about 15 days without an accident - you can start letting her have more freedom in the house and watching her behavior for signs she needs to go out. But we always put our dogs out first thing in the morning and shortly after they eat. Also, don't get discouraged if she has a "relapse." It's common that dogs relapse right before they *really get it.* It has something to do with memory going from short-term to long-term, or so the brain researchers say.
If she does have an accident, make sure it's cleaned thoroughly with some scent masking. Once a dog has pottied in a spot and the odor remains, it seems like a good spot for a repeat performance to the dog.
There's a really good book called *SuperPuppy* by Peter Vollmer that explains all this and other really useful puppy training information. It's very concise - less than 40 pages - and less than $10. We give a copy to all our puppy buyers. You can order it by calling Direct Book Service at 1-800-776-2665.
And, back to that crate. Now you have a secure place for the puppy to sleep at night and a safe way to transport her in the car. If you need to confine her - you have company, you've just waxed the floor, whatever - give her a bone or a pig's ear to chew in her crate and she's happy as a lark to be there.
Some dogs catch on faster than others, but they all can learn if we're patient and understand that dog language is not always people language. The *SuperPuppy* book explains dog language really well. We highly recommend it. Good-luck!
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